tried installing it into its own folder and copying that folder into 32bit and 64bit plug in folders for PS. Plug in - won't even register under photoshop. stand alone program returns whole bunch of error messages, can't navigate into folders, can't open images - pretty much error basket. And it is Free!ĭownloaded both PS plugin and stand alone program from their website. Virtual photographer has a stand alone version that does this conversion, I've liked the results in the past, plus you have some other image options while you're doing so. I'll play with it some more and see what i can come up with. Nesster wrote: virtual photographer has a stand alone version that does this conversion, I've liked the results in the past, plus you have some other image options while you're doing so. Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),ĪF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E Museum stuff: Certo-Phot Tele-Edixon 135 Polaris 90-190 Asahi Bellows Ixus IIs Yashicaflex C Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11 Polaroid 100 Olympus XA Yashica T3 MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c Samsung NX10 OM-10 Canon T50 I don't have photoshop so don't really understand the instruction but sounds like you still have the orange mask left because inverted it turns blue? In any case, i followed your instructions, sampled film border for level adjustment, and once inverted i still got heavy blue cast on entire image. It gives pretty good, steady light which lets me use fast shutter speeds even at F8 (ISO 100). I use cheap LED light source with diffuser by sunpack, and have it set right behind the film. Open photoshop, select adjust levels, click on the right hand dropper and sample the border colour. I copy the negs with a bit of the border included. I can do it now but its a steep learning curve. Hero in the 'messin-with-cameras-for-the-hell-of-it department'. I've not read this bit of advice anywhere I had to discover it myself. Do not rely on auto white balance because the orange mask buggers it up. Importantly you must have your camera set to the right colour balance depending on the light source. It sounds simple but takes a bit of time to get used to it. Philslizzy wrote: I can do it now but its a steep learning curve. Members have used a DSLR for "scanning" negs and have achieved very good results. Well you're in luck as there are threads here where members have used a DSLR for "scanning" negs and have achieved very good results. I assume you photographed the neg with a digital camera. Well if there was an easy answer there would be no need to use a film scanner. past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1,, Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3 I assume you photographed the neg with a digital camera.Ĭanon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Excalibur wrote: Well if there was an easy answer there would be no need to use a film scanner.
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